During the 17th century, Akbar the Great was the third Mughal Emperor reigning over a vast Indian empire for nearly fifty years. Under his benign reign the royal court of Emperor Akbar revered the muses of music, art, dance, literature, philosophy, and also of cooking. In antiquity, many dishes were specifically created for the Mughal emperor and his royal court.
Thanks to Kapoor’s Akbar Indian Cuisine located at the Southern edge of Chinatown, many of those dishes can still be enjoyed in DTLA.
Curious about the establishment which would take on the namesake of one of the greatest rulers of the old world, Downtown Weekly dined in with owner Chef Avinash Kapoor and discovered…
The Seven Wonders of Kapoor’s Akbar.
W1. The Mural of Good Fortune
Sitting beneath a wall-sized mural of gold and pastel images laced in Indian antiquity, the first of several courses of nothing short of a feast was laid down before us. This mural, passed down generations, reflects the happiness and joy of India’s past and gave the place a feeling of good fortune.
W2. The Cuisine of Akbar
Against the red wine, Taj beer and Mango Lassi sat heavy bowls covered with soft warm naans served exclusively at Kapoor’s Akbar; garlic and traditional naan, and Kapoor’s cheese naan filled with cream cheese, Parmesan, and cheddar. Beside them, a sectioned dish of colorful chutneys; coconut, mint and vegetable- pickle, each with its own perfect hits and misses of sweet and spicy.
Soon after came the first of Kapoor’s signature dishes, the Coco Lamb. Beaming, Avinash revealed that it is prepared with coconut milk, crushed peppers, mustard seeds, red chilies and coconut powder. As we lifted the cream cheese naan with savory Coco Lamb bonanza for a first bite, Avinash informed us that the dish was once voted one of the Top Ten Dishes in Southern California, just one of many accolades the chain had gained over the years.
W3. Lifelong Passion
In the late 1970’s, Los Angeles had only a handful of Indian Cuisine restaurants. As we ate we found out Avinash’s father opened one of the first Indian restaurants in Marina del Rey. It was there that a young Avinash first began working in his father’s business when he was just seventeen years old.
The second course of Tandoori Chicken was sat down before us. This was as traditional a dish we could eat, dating back over 400 centuries to a time of primal aromas and tantalizing flavors, now coming forth from the rising flames of Kapoor’s Tandoori oven.
W4. It taste just like the Royal Court, alright!
With a crinkle of his forehead, Avinash explained, “But, still, back in those times hunting was an elite sport for the princes of the court,” he continued. “They had many different types of food which aren’t regularly prepared anymore. Indian dishes like duck, venison, rabbit, and frog’s legs, were considered specialty items.
“However, if someone wants me to prepare those dishes I can easily make them to order with a little advanced notice.”
W5. The Spice of Life
As did the ancient peoples of Asia, Avinash knows that every spice on Earth has a purpose in our life and each one has its own unique role in cooking. Taste the finest spices money can buy at Kapoor’s Akbar.
Be it the turmeric which heals inflammation, the cooling effects of coriander and cumin, the cayenne that raises one’s heart rate or the Himalayan pink salt that helps the digestive system, used correctly they have been known for their healing powers.
W6. But Would Chef Avinash Do Modern Fusion?
Sure. Well, Chicken Tikka Masala is modern already, brought to India by the British.
Soon comes the Spicy Garlic Shrimp bathing in Serrano peppers, garlic, onion and spices. This is another signature dish exclusive to Kapoor’s Akbar. There’s a hint of sweetness. It’s tamarind.
Other unique recipes include Shrimp Goa Curry, Tandoori Chilean Seabass, Chicken Tamatter and Chicken Kati Roll as Avinash calls them, “Inspired”
“First I imagine what the dish should look and taste like. Only then do I go into the kitchen and re-create what I conceived in my imagination.”
We were imagining the Chicken Kati Roll and ordering it next time.
W7. Healthy and in Good Taste
Kapoor’s will always update their traditional Mughali dishes to suit the dietary particulars of health conscious diners in Los Angeles.
“Our non-traditional menu is what keeps healthy minded people, who wouldn’t ordinarily eat Indian food, coming back. We have a large selection of vegan dishes which are always made to order.”
“We take the oil out of our food here except for the sauté,” he explained.
“We don’t use cream in our dishes at Kapoor’s unless it’s requested,” says Avinash. “The use of heavy cream in Indian cooking was also introduced by the British.”
“I also have a Keto menu for those who have a more strict regimen of eating or dieting. Why should someone deny themselves the pleasure of eating sacred Indian food when it can be taken in smart and in a healthy manner?”
Under his benign reign, Akbar the Great strove to unite far-flung lands and its peoples by conciliating different customs and religions through mutual respect, marriage, and diplomacy.
After our meal, we followed Avinash to the kitchen to watch him prepare. The kitchen was small yet conventional with lit burners set beneath some really huge stainless steel pots. A simmering orange sauce was being stirred with a very large ladle, bubbling almost to the rim, first caught our attention.
Then we saw the flames Avinash had at his command while making his sautés.
We feared for him initially but then we saw his smiling face and heard a chuckle,
“See I’m modern, I often use a wok for cooking certain dishes. It’s part of my non-traditional approach. A wok helps cook the food faster, keeps the flavor and nutrients in, and it creates a consistency that I like.”
Bollywood music plays on the screens of Kapoor’s. The afternoon lunch crowd and the early dinner seats serve smaller portions of Avinash’s mastered plates.
Lunch is served Monday to Friday and dinner is served nightly. Check out Kapoor’s Special Wine Dinner Events and Kapoor’s focused wine list. Desserts and refreshing lassis are served all day.
It’s Official – Kapoor’s Akbar would have been a wonderful divine muse of Emperor Akbar’s court.
Kapoor’s Akbar is located at 701 W. Cesar E. Chavez Ave, LA CA 90012.
@kapoorsakbar
